ART DECO SAPPHIRE, ROCK CRYSTAL AND DIAMOND BOW BROOCH BY CARTIER. CIRCA 1915-1919.
SOLD : ACQUIRED BY PETIT PALAIS, MUSEE DES BEAUX-ARTS, PARIS
A very fine early Art Deco sapphire, rock crystal and diamond bow brooch by CARTIER, mounted in platinum. Maker’s mark of Louis Cartier and numbered 57547.
French assay mark for platinum: dog’s head.
Dimensions: 45 x 23 mm.
Paris, circa 1915-1919.
CHAZAL G. & CHAZAL M., Bijoux Parisiens : French Jewelry from the Palais Royal, Paris, Memphis, Tennessee The Dixon Gallery and Gardens, 2013, p. 192, cat. 237
“With far more restrained color contrast , Cartier’s Bow Brooch (cat.237) produced between 1915 and 1920 reveals the development of this particular form. The highly representational bows of earlier designs are here replaced by greater stylization. Frosted, engraved rock crystal creates the structure and geometry of the bow. Successive lines of calibrated sapphires and diamonds reinforce the design.” (CHAZAL G. & CHAZAL M., Bijoux Parisiens, p.183)
Art Deco Jewellery 1920-1939, Exhibition catalogue, Diamond Museum Antwerp, 26 September 26 - December 31, 2003, p. 45, catalogue n. 4 .