A rare ‘Chapelet Musulman’ necklace by Cartier, composed of a continuous series of polished gold beads, spaced at intervals with larger fluted beads, three suspending triple interlaced knot motifs in twisted ropework, leading to a tapering openwork pendant of cage-like construction, surmounted by a drop-shaped panel inscribed on both sides with the name of Allah.
 
Weight: 199,4 grams. In red leather Cartier fitted case with brown velvet and creme silk interior.
 
An example of this Chapelet musulman necklace is illustrated on page 219 of Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity, the catalog accompanying the exhibition held at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris (October 21, 2021 – February 20, 2022). The exhibition explored the profound impact of Islamic art on Louis Cartier’s creative vision and the emergence of a new aesthetic in early 20th-century jewelry design.
 
The Chapelet musulman was first introduced by Cartier in 1946 under the name Sautoir arabe. Inspired by the mishaba, the traditional devotional rosary, the design reflects Cartier’s fascination with Islamic decorative arts—a passion fueled by the maison’s collection of artworks and rare books. Among these was Gaston Migeon’s Manuel d’art musulman (1907), which included a 13th-century Spanish lamp motif later reproduced in Louis Cartier’s design notebooks.
Under the artistic direction of Jeanne Toussaint (1933–1970), the model evolved over the decades, with the final version appearing around 1970. Produced only in limited numbers, the necklaces are distinguished primarily by the form of their pendants: early examples feature pear-shaped filigree drops, while later versions, such as this one, display a delicate openwork drop-shaped cage.
 
References:
N. Coleno, Etourdissant Cartier: La Création Depuis 1937, Éditions du Regard, Paris, 2008, p. 138.
F. Chaille, The Cartier Collection: Jewelry, Éditions Flammarion, Paris, 2004, pp. 11, 289.
 
Reference number: REF 294
Price upon Request